Thursday, March 15, 2018

2018 Great Waters Expo Flies

Hello Happy Fly Chuckers!
Here are the Material list for the flies I will be tying at Expo.
Check back to this as I hope to have links to the step by steps. But I want to try this instead of killing a lot of trees and hauling a lot of paper.
Thanks for stopping by and watching me tie!!!!
(* if you use one of my flies - Please send me pictures of fish you caught :-)

Pink Seducer
Hook: Size 6 Heavy Scud Hood
Thread:     Red 6/0 Thread
Body: Medium Pink Ultra Wire
Thorax: Ice Dub - Pheasant Tail color
Hackle:     Hen Saddle Any Medium Color

Collar      Ice Dub - Pheasant Tail color
Step by Step Link Pink Seducer

Jack’s House Fly (Jack’s Popper)
Hook = Mustad 3366 size 6
Thread = 6/0 (Jack prefers Red)
Body = 1MM foam attached to 2MM sticky back foam
NOTE: I’m cutting the foam equal to the gap (5/16” on size 6)
Legs = Medium Round Rubber (2" long and split in groups of 2)
Step by Step Link  Jack Popper

Pink Pookie
Hook = 1X long Dry Fly
Thread = Red  6/0
Under Body = Light Pink 2MM Craft Foam
Over Body = Tan 2MM Craft Foam
* Bodies can be cut by hand or with River Road Creation Cutters
* I prefer the Size 4 Hopper wing for the Pink and the Medium Tapered Chernobyl Ant for the Tan
Wing = Elk or Deer Hair
Indicator Post = Hi-Vis or bright foam (2mm cut 1/8” wide)
Legs = Barred Round Rubber size medium ( I like Tarantula legs)
Step by Step Link  Pink Pookie

Just Eat Me
Hook = Size 8 Wet Fly Hook (Mustad 3399)  ( 1X long if using a bead)
Weight= .025 Lead wire approx 12 wraps (on center)
Thread = Black  6/0
Tail = Yellow Marabou (add 4 – 6 strands of Flashabou)
Body = Black Medium Chenille
Hackle = Grizzly hackle (wet fly grade from hen neck or saddle)
Designed as a fly for panfish, there is no reason this would not entice a nice trout or two. Try some different colors also (trout Black tail).
(** See previous post for step by step
Step by Step previous Post link = Just Eat Me
Step by Step Link  ** working on printable version

Pink Squirrel
Hook = 14 or 16 Heavy Scud Hook
Bead = Tungsten Gold Bead 2.4MM
Thread = Tan 8/0
Rib = Gold or Red Small Wire
Body = Natural Squirrel Dub
Thorax = Pink Dubbing
Step by Step Link  ** not available yet

Sunny Dragon Bubble Eye
Hook = Mustad 3366 or equivalent, Size 6
Thread = 6/0 Thread (any color)
Eyes = 1/8 Bead Chain (medium) (painted white or silver)
Tail = Krystal Flash ( 6-8 strands) Red is a good color for panfish
Body = Sea Dragon Dubbing (chartreuse and black leech)
Head = Ice Dub (Peacock)
Step by Step Link  Sunny Dragon Bubble Eye

Sunny Chumb (b is silent :-) (Red and Chartreuse)
Hook = 3366 size 8
Thread = 6/0 Red (Chartruese)
Eyes = Small Black Bead Chain
Tail = Fine Round Rubber - Red (Chartreuse)
Rib = Mirco Polar Chenille - UV Red (Chartreuse)
Body = Red Ultra Chenille (Chartreuse)
** This Micro Polar Chenille is a wonderfull material I make this Sunny Chumb in a wide variety of colors
Chartruese, Pearl, Black UV, Yellow are my other favorites. 
Step by Step Link  Sunny Chumb

This is a link to my outline for my Advanced foam tying presentation
Link = Advanced Foam tying Synopsis PDF

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Pink Seducer

Pink Seducer
Hook = Size 6 Heavy Scud hook (500)
Thread = 6/0 - Red
Wire = Medium Ultra Wire - Pink

Thorax = Ice Dub - Pheasant Tail color
Hackle = Hen Saddle Any Medium Color
Collar = Ice Dub - Pheasant Tail color
Head = Red thread

I clamp the hook in the vise so the area by the eye is horizontal  to help when wrapping the hackle. Tie your jam knot leave one eye length back from the eye. Warp back so you are two eye lengths back.

Tie in the Medium Pink Ultra Wire on the side closest to you and wrap it down the shank. Wrap down 2/3  of the shank. Then wrap the thread back up to three eye lengths back from the eye.

Wrap the wire (in touching turns) up the shank to 3 eye lengths back from the eye. This will give the fly the weight it needs and create the body. Catch the wire in and tie it off. Clip off excess wire. Remember to stay clear of the no encroach zone (one eye length back).
Hint: I try to make the area the wire is tied in at level and even for a straight winding area for the hackle.

Make a small ball of dubbing from 3 eye lengths back to 2 eye lengths back. This dubbing ball will help keep the hackle up while stripping the fly back in.

Remove the fluff from the lower stem of the hackle and tie it in. remember to use the same rule as above (even and only to the no encroach area).

Wind two or three warps of hackle. Hint: gently fold back the hackle around the stem before wrapping it in.

Tie off the hackle (you will now be in the no encroach area). Trim off the excess hackle.

Dub a collar just in front and tight to the hackle. (You should have the hackle trapped between dubbing collars. 2 or 3 wraps of dubbing should be enough.

Create a small thread head right behind the eye. Whip finish or half hitch.
Note: I do cement or lacquer the head to keep the Sunnies from tearing it apart.

Flish - I leave this sink into the fishes zone. They will usually hit it on the fall. If no hits, I will jerk it forward and leave it fall again. You can also use a medium speed jerk retrieve.

Thursday, March 8, 2018


Hello Happy Fly Chuckers!
Well tis the end of another year for Fly Chuckery. We had a good year but sadly many where not able to attend this year. We were able to meet at the Perkins in Edina for Breakfast and then take a quick trip over to my work and use the lunchroom for our meetings. maybe this was out of the way for many, but it turned out to be a good venue.

The HFFA show is done for another year. Mark your calendars for Feb 15-17 2019 for the 45th anniversary show. Tim Landwehr, Blane Chocklett, and George Daniel will headline. If you did miss this year you missed my two presentations. They turned out very good.

Below is a list of the Fly Tiers featured in my presentation "The Art In Fly Tying". I had several people ask for this. I had copies made but sadly they did not make the trip :-(

Upcoming March 16-18 is Great Waters Expo at Hamline University. It should be a great show also. Friday I am doing a program on Advanced Foam Tying. Hope you can come, watch, and learn.
!!!!!!!!! I AM STILL IN NEED OF SOME FLY TIERS FOR EXPO !!!!!!!! Please contact me if you are interested. Remember free admission with 4 hours served LOL.

Tuesday after Expo its time to head for Sowbug in Arkansas. Maybe next year we can all rent a buss and go together LOL. Seriously if you are a Fly Tyer, Sowbug is 3 days of nothing but fly tying. this year there are 140 different tiers! (Email me if you want more info).

Again Thanks for a wonderful year of Chuckery. Please keep checking back at the blog. I promise to try to post a lot more often. Send me pictures to post.


Link to "The Art In Fly Tying" presentation information page.
The Art in Fly Tying information page

Monday, March 5, 2018

Fly Tyers Addiction Pledge

Fly Tyers Addiction Pledge;
I will not buy every color of something.
I will not have more material than the local fly shop.
I will not by more than one of something.
I will not hide stuff so my wife can’t find it.
I will not walk slow thru the Dollar Store.
I Will ignore all the above! 
My friends better get to Hobby Lobby before me!
I have talked to an Architect about adding on.
I will let my wife buy as many shoes as she wants.

I came up with this for my "Learn To Watch" presentation at HFFA this last weekend. I think everyone liked it :-). Special thanks to the wonderful show committee! They did an awesome job!
I will be posting more stuff from the show this week so keep checking back.

Thursday, December 7, 2017


Just Eat Me  (Tied and picture by Scott Nordby)
Hook = Size 8 Wet Fly Hook (Mustad 3399)  ( 1X long if using a bead)
Weight= .025 Lead wire approx 12 wraps (on center)
Thread = Black  6/0
Tail = Yellow Marabou (add 4 – 6 strands of Flashabou)
Body = Black Medium Chenille
Hackle = Grizzly hackle (wet fly grade from hen neck or saddle)
Designed as a fly for panfish, there is no reason this would not entice a nice trout or two. Try some different colors also (trout Black tail).

I have been having some fun lately tying on a vintage vise that is identical to the vise I started on back in 1973. Herter’s sold this vise as a Model 18T for a whopping $.97, less than a buck. Many different companies sold this vise and put it in many different kits. Sadly I do not have my original vise but I was lucky enough to find one in the same kit I started with. That led me to my new “Addiction” of trying to find kits that use this same vise. So far I have a collection of 14 different kits with this same vise and one kit dates back to 1956 and some maybe older. I have collected some other vintage vises that I am eager to tie with also. 
The Vise is one of our most important tools with its main purpose of holding the hook. This was a very simple vise that barely held the hook. It did not turn, rotate, swing, or anything fancy. It barely even clamped to the table. A lot of my techniques came from using this vise. Because it didn’t hold the hook tight enough I had to support the fly and hook with my hand. My left hand rarely left the hook other to collect more material to add. This “Just Eat Me” fly is a special fly because it dates back to my early years of tying and I think is one of my first original fly creations. Like most patterns it has gotten a few tweaks thru the years. It now has a bead for weight and some flash in the tail. But don’t discount it with just lead wire for weight as a slow sinking fly for spring panfish. 

TYING STEPS (coordinate to above pictures)

Wind on 12-14 wraps of .025 lead or lead free wire on to the hook. Start one eye length back from the eye.

With 6/0 black thread, start your jam not in front of the lead wire (The lead may move back slightly but that is ok). Wrap over the lead several times to secure it in and then wind the thread to the bend. wind the thread to the back of the lead wire as this will be the tie in spot for the Marabou

Tie in Yellow Marabou for the tail (I use one Blood Marabou feather). The tail sould be 1-1/2 the length of the shank. At this point you can tie in 4-6 strands of Flashabou in with the tail to add just a little flash. Do not tie in to much to over flash the tail. You want just a hint of flash. trim the flashabou just short of the tail.

Tie in a piece of Medium Black Chenille for the body. As you tie it in behind the leadwire, this area sould be getting filled in with material and thread to make it even in diameter with the lead. You can add a few more wraps of thread to make it more even if you want. then bring the thread forward to just in front of the lead wire.

Wind the Chenille forward in touching wraps to just in front of the lead wire and tie it off. Trim of excess chenille. Make sure not to crowd the head.

Tie in a Grizzly or Black soft hackle. Prepare the hackle by removing the fuzz and unwanted fibers from the base of the quill. You can trim of strip off a small section to tie in. You want to tie it in with the shinny side forward.

Make 3 or 4 wraps of the hackle up against the chenille. I you tie in the feather with the shinny side forward the feather in have a concaved appearance to the back. This is wet fly style.

Tie of the hackle just behind the eye. Trim off excess hackle. Finish by tying a small tapered head. This will also help force the hackle backward a little. Half Hitch or Whip Finish. Trim thread and secure with head cement.

Here are a couple options.
 - for early in the year I prefer this version (the above tied version) with just the leadwire. this will let the fly sink slowly enough to allow it to be fished in the shallows for early season panfish. I fish it with a small slow jerk retrieve.
 - For later in the year I will add a 5/32 or 3/16 brass bead for more weight to help get it down faster. ** Note if you add a bead you should also change the hook to a 2x long hook to compinsate for the bead. That way the fly will be proportioned corectly. You can use the same hook but the fly will be a little subbyer.
 - Try different colors. A Chartreuse Tail also works good.

I will put a link to a step by step pdf when I get it done.
You can email me if you are waiting for one and want me to send it direct to you.
I have Laughing Trout party on Friday and am heading to Rivers falls for some free food at Lunds Fly Shop on Saturday. Hopefully I can get some time on Sunday to do the PDF.
Email Scott at

Saturday, August 5, 2017


I have been asked to do another "TALES FROM THE VISE" for the HFFA Flyline news letter. So here it is, hope you enjoy. (Step by Step link at the end)

It might be a little early to consider this fall fishing, but it is coming up on us fast.  Fish have been poked and prodded all spring and summer, and are pretty wary but now. So fooling a fish right now can be awful rewarding. One thing is for certain, and that is the fish are still hungry and still want to eat. All be it that they are more selective, your job is to give them something they want to eat. And nothing says full meal deal like a big juice Beetle! This is a favorite of mine. It has fooled many a fish. It is a fun and easy fly to tie. If you do not have a Beetle body cutter, no problem you can easily cut your own with a little practice. Making your herl body bullet proof is the big tip I want to share. Tie in 4 or 5 stands of herl by the tips on the near side of the hook (from 2 eye lengths back behind the eye to the bend). Now make a dubbing loop slightly longer than the herl. The dubbing loop must be tied at the same place you finished tying in the herl at. Now gently wrap the thread dubbing loop around the herl, 5-8 wraps should do. Now take a hackle pliers (I prefer the test clip style for this) and grab the herl and thread together. Now start twisting the herl and thread to form a “chenille like” rope of herl. Once you are satisfied with the look and density of your herl chenille, you can wrap your body. The thread in the herl rope will make this indestructible. No need to counter wrap a rib here. Use this technique anywhere you want nice looking, bullet proof herl.          

Foam Beetle  (Tied and picture by Scott Nordby)
Hook = Size 10 Dry fly (size 12-16 for the light appetites)
Thread = Black  6/0
Under Body = Peacock Herl
Over Body = Black 2MM Craft Foam
* Bodies can be cut by hand or with River Road Creation Cutters
* I prefer the Size 12 Beetle Body cutter
Legs = Round Rubber size medium (Black)
Indicator Post = Hi-Vis or bright foam (2mm cut 1/8” wide)

Foam Beetle step-by-step
*Note: The step-by-step does not have the herl rope technique I discribed. I will try to work on a new one soon and add it here so please check back in a couple weeks. Thanks.

Friday, June 9, 2017

Pink Pookie

I've done a couple "Tales from the Vise" articles for Fly Line (The HFFA Newsletter). Here is the latest one I did for them.

Tales From the Vise:
If anyone knows me they know I have a passion for tying flies. I am very proud of the flies that I have developed and created. But this time I’m turning the vise a little. This fly, the Pink Pookie was developed by Dean Reiner of Hatch Finders Trout shop in Livingston Montana. I was lucky enough to be shown how to tie this fly by Dandy Reiner, his daughter and co-owner of the shop. It is a fun fly to tie and a great fly to fish. As a demonstration tier I enjoy tying at events like the HFFA Annual Meeting, Sowbug Roundup and the IFFF Fair. I consider myself a good tier but I am truly amazed and humbled when I get go to an event like Sowbug (60 tables of tiers) and watch and learn from other tiers. If you are a fly tier and can make an event like this, you will not be disappointed. What I really want to say though is this; if you watch other people tie flies, don’t concentrate on the pattern. Concentrate on what they are doing and how they are tying. Learning a new technique rather than a pattern is way more valuable.

Pink Pookie (Tied and picture by Scott Nordby)

Hook = 1X long Dry Fly
Thread = Red  6/0
Under Body = Light Pink 2MM Craft Foam
Over Body = Tan 2MM Craft Foam
* Bodies can be cut by hand or with River Road Creation Cutters
* I prefer the Size 4 Hopper wing for the Pink and the Medium Tapered Chernobyl Ant for the Tan
Wing = Elk or Deer Hair (I prefer Elk cause it lays flatter)
Indicator Post = Hi-Vis or bright foam (2mm cut 1/8” wide)
Legs = Barred Round Rubber size medium ( I like Tarantula legs)
I have a STEP-BY STEP Pdf of this pattern that I did for the Laughing Trout Group.