Friday, January 25, 2013


Tail -
Thread = 6/0 (Black or White)
Tail material = Large Trilobal Antron Chenille
Attractor tip = Round rubber of Silicon Skirting Material
Cover material = Ice Dub for a swimming worm, or a small piece of foam super guled on to hold the tail up when dropping in holes.

Body -
Hook = Mustad 3366 size 2/0
Weight A = Large Cone Head (Dumbell eyes also work well)
Weight B = .030 lead wire (about 6 turns) behind the cone
Body A = Tail from Step 1
Overbody = Large Polar Chenille
UnderBody = Large or Med Trilobal Antron Chenille

F) Debarb a Mustad 3366 size 2/0 hook (or equiv) and slip on a large Cone Head. Make 2 wraps of lead wire in front of the cone. This will keep the cone from crowding the eye as you tie in other materials. you will want a little room in front of the cone for the weed guard. Make 6 wraps of lead wire behind the cone. Tie base wrap of thread and secure in lead wire behind cone. Attach a piece of Hard Mason (20-25lb) for a weed guard tying between 1/3 and 1/2 way down the bend. Thread to front.

G) Tie in the tail made in Part-1 of this procedure. I tie in from behind the eye to the bend. You can change the location to give yourself the correct worm length you are looking for.

H) Tie in a piece of Polar Chenille at the rear. Tie in a piece of Trilobal Antron Chenille (strip fluff and tie in core for less bulk). Use large Chenille for a fuller body or medium Chenille for a normal body, and no Chenille for a slender body.

I) Wrap the Trilobal Antron Chenille forward to just behind the cone head.

J) Now wrap the Polar Chenille forward. As you wind it forward, stroke the fiber back as you wind, to keep from trapping fiber under wraps to give you a full body. The tighter together you make your wraps the fuller the body will be. ** This is the key to this fly. The Polar Chenille fibers hold air as you cast and release a irresitable bubble trail as the fly sinks. Tie off under the cone and whip finish. Remove the lead wire from the front and slide the cone forward. Use some head cement on the winding to secure the body. Move the cone back so you have room to tie in the weedguard. Re-attach the thread in fron to the cone just behind the eye. Now pull the weedguard up thru the eye. take a couple loose wraps around the weed gaurd behind the eye. Adjust the weedguard to the proper lenght for you (some like a tight loop and some like a full loop). Once you have the weedguard in position, pull the tag end of the weedguard back and wrap around it catching it in on top and bottom. Whip finish and trim thread. To cut the tag of the weedguard off I prefer using a toenail clipper. Clip off tag of weedguard and cement the head.

Again, the key to this fly is the bubble trail it leaves as it descends. The denser you get the Polar Chenille the more air bubbles you trap and the deeper you can go, or farther you can swim it,  while still leaving this irresistible bubble trail.

This fly has been through many changes. It was based on the "Purple Worm" from a old Fly Tyer Magazine. But it was to small for me and I didn't like the movement of the tail. A few years ago I found the solution for the tail with the Trilobal Antron Chenille. This allowed it to grow in size. It had to compete against the 5" rubber worms. I also changed to the Rubber for the tail tips, and get way more attraction and movement the the original marabou. But it wasn't until a couple of years ago that I stumbled on the Polar Chenille that changed this fly forever for me.  And now with all the new colors and combinations, the Bass don't have a chance. 

Comments and/or suggestions are always welcome. Thanks Scott Nordby
(tying and pictures by Scott)

1 comment:

  1. Hi all-
    I checked and found a lot -like hundreds- of 2/0 straight eye hooks. Most are spinnerbait hooks- Mustad 91706N (ultrapoint model), or Eagle Claw L255N. If you haven't already, don't go out and buy hooks. I'll bring them next Saturday. Maybe we can work out a trade.


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